Hair porosity, what does it mean?
"Hair porosity refers to how well your hair can absorb and retain moisture.
This is determined by the condition of your hair cuticles, which are the outermost layer of the hair shaft.
The cuticles act like tiny doors that open to let moisture in and close to keep it locked inside.
Hair porosity is typically categorized into low, medium and high porosity, each with different characteristics and care needs."
How do I know what type of hair mine is?
The Float Test
Clean Hair: Ensure your hair is free of products and buildup.
Fill a Glass: Use a clear glass or bowl and fill it with room temperature water.
Place Hair: Gently place a few clean strands of hair on the surface of the water.
Observe: Watch how the hair behaves. If it floats, your hair is likely low porosity. If it sinks, it's high porosity. If it floats in the middle, it's medium porosity.
The Spray Bottle Test
Saturate a Section of Hair: Mist a small section of your hair with water from a spray bottle.
Observe Absorption:
Low Porosity: Water beads up on the surface and doesn't absorb quickly.
High Porosity: Water absorbs rapidly.
Medium Porosity: Water absorbs after a couple of minutes.
The Finger Test
Gently run your fingers down a clean, dry strand of hair.
Feel for Smoothness: Take a strand of clean, dry hair, preferably after washing and drying your hair to remove product build-up.
Slide your fingers up the hair shaft, from the tip to the root.
High Porosity: Water absorbs rapidly.
Medium Porosity: Water absorbs after a couple of minutes.
The Finger Test
Gently run your fingers down a clean, dry strand of hair.
Feel for Smoothness: Take a strand of clean, dry hair, preferably after washing and drying your hair to remove product build-up.
Slide your fingers up the hair shaft, from the tip to the root.
Observe how it feels
If it feels smooth: This suggests that the cuticle is tightly closed, indicating low porosity.
If it feels rough or bumpy: This indicates that the cuticles are lifted, suggesting high porosity.
If you feel some resistance but no bumps: This might mean you have medium or normal porosity hair.
Low porosity hair, (like mine) refers to hair with tightly bound cuticles, the outermost layer of the hair shaft.
This tight structure makes it challenging for moisture - including water, oils, and styling products, to penetrate the hair shaft.
If it feels rough or bumpy: This indicates that the cuticles are lifted, suggesting high porosity.
If you feel some resistance but no bumps: This might mean you have medium or normal porosity hair.
Low porosity hair, (like mine) refers to hair with tightly bound cuticles, the outermost layer of the hair shaft.
This tight structure makes it challenging for moisture - including water, oils, and styling products, to penetrate the hair shaft.
However, once moisture does get in, low porosity hair is excellent at retaining it.
Resistant to chemical treatments: Coloring or perming may require more effort to penetrate the hair.
May appear smooth and shiny: Due to the flat cuticle layer, low porosity hair often appears smooth and can have a natural shine.
Prone to dryness and frizz: While it retains moisture well, getting moisture in can be difficult, leading to dryness and frizz if not properly cared for.
Resistant to chemical treatments: Coloring or perming may require more effort to penetrate the hair.
May appear smooth and shiny: Due to the flat cuticle layer, low porosity hair often appears smooth and can have a natural shine.
Prone to dryness and frizz: While it retains moisture well, getting moisture in can be difficult, leading to dryness and frizz if not properly cared for.
How to Care for Low Porosity Hair
Use lightweight products: Choose water-based products that can more easily penetrate the hair shaft.
Apply heat: Heat helps open the hair cuticles, allowing for better moisture absorption.
Consider using a steam cap or warm towel when deep conditioning.
Clarify regularly: Use a clarifying shampoo to remove product buildup that can hinder moisture penetration.
Rinse with warm water: Warm water helps open the cuticles and aids in product absorption.
Use humectants: Ingredients like glycerin and aloe vera attract and retain moisture.
Avoid heavy oils and butters: These can contribute to product buildup and weigh down the hair.
Opt for lighter oils, such as argan oil, jojoba oil, grapeseed oil, sweet almond oil, and apricot kernel oil.
Consider the LOC or LCO method. The key difference lies in the order of application: LOC is liquid, oil, cream. LCO is leave-in, cream, oil.
This layering technique helps seal in moisture.
Use lightweight products: Choose water-based products that can more easily penetrate the hair shaft.
Apply heat: Heat helps open the hair cuticles, allowing for better moisture absorption.
Consider using a steam cap or warm towel when deep conditioning.
Clarify regularly: Use a clarifying shampoo to remove product buildup that can hinder moisture penetration.
Rinse with warm water: Warm water helps open the cuticles and aids in product absorption.
Use humectants: Ingredients like glycerin and aloe vera attract and retain moisture.
Avoid heavy oils and butters: These can contribute to product buildup and weigh down the hair.
Opt for lighter oils, such as argan oil, jojoba oil, grapeseed oil, sweet almond oil, and apricot kernel oil.
Consider the LOC or LCO method. The key difference lies in the order of application: LOC is liquid, oil, cream. LCO is leave-in, cream, oil.
This layering technique helps seal in moisture.
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| rosemary & lavender hair oil infusion |
Characteristics of Medium Porosity Hair
Moderately raised cuticles: The hair cuticles are not tightly bound like low porosity hair, but not overly open like high porosity hair, allowing for a good flow of moisture in and out of the hair shaft.
Easy to manage and style: Medium porosity hair readily absorbs and retains moisture, making it manageable and easy to style, including holding styles for a good length of time.
Takes color well: The slightly raised cuticles allow hair color to penetrate easily, leading to vibrant and long-lasting results.
Looks healthy and shiny: Medium porosity hair often has a natural sheen or gloss due to its ability to absorb and retain moisture well.
Minimal breakage and split ends: When properly cared for, medium porosity hair is less prone to breakage and split ends compared to high porosity hair.
Moderate drying time: Medium porosity hair gets wet easily but doesn't take an excessively long time to air dry.
Caring for Medium Porosity Hair
While medium porosity hair is generally easy to manage, it's still important to care for it properly to maintain its health and prevent damage.
Gentle, consistent care: Use gentle shampoos and conditioners that won't strip natural oils.
Avoid over-processing: Limit or avoid excessive heat styling or chemical treatments, as these can increase porosity over time.
Regular clarifying: Use a clarifying shampoo regularly to remove product buildup that can hinder moisture absorption.
Maintain protein-moisture balance: Medium porosity hair can benefit from occasional protein treatments, but be careful not to overdo it, as this can disrupt the hair's natural balance.
Use lightweight products: Choose lightweight products that won't weigh down the hair or cause excessive buildup. Oils like argan, avocado, and grapeseed are good choices.
Protect from environmental stressors: Shield your hair from harsh weather conditions and UV exposure to prevent damage and maintain its health.
Consider deep conditioning: Deep conditioning treatments can help to nourish and strengthen medium porosity hair, especially if it's been exposed to heat or chemical treatments.
High porosity hair has raised or lifted cuticles, which are the outermost layer of the hair shaft.
This means that the cuticles have gaps or openings that allow moisture to easily enter the hair shaft, but it also means that moisture escapes just as quickly.
While medium porosity hair is generally easy to manage, it's still important to care for it properly to maintain its health and prevent damage.
Gentle, consistent care: Use gentle shampoos and conditioners that won't strip natural oils.
Avoid over-processing: Limit or avoid excessive heat styling or chemical treatments, as these can increase porosity over time.
Regular clarifying: Use a clarifying shampoo regularly to remove product buildup that can hinder moisture absorption.
Maintain protein-moisture balance: Medium porosity hair can benefit from occasional protein treatments, but be careful not to overdo it, as this can disrupt the hair's natural balance.
Use lightweight products: Choose lightweight products that won't weigh down the hair or cause excessive buildup. Oils like argan, avocado, and grapeseed are good choices.
Protect from environmental stressors: Shield your hair from harsh weather conditions and UV exposure to prevent damage and maintain its health.
Consider deep conditioning: Deep conditioning treatments can help to nourish and strengthen medium porosity hair, especially if it's been exposed to heat or chemical treatments.
High porosity hair has raised or lifted cuticles, which are the outermost layer of the hair shaft.
This means that the cuticles have gaps or openings that allow moisture to easily enter the hair shaft, but it also means that moisture escapes just as quickly.
As a result, high porosity hair can absorb water and products quickly, but it struggles to retain that moisture, leading to dryness and breakage.
Characteristics of High Porosity Hair
Absorbs water and products quickly: Your hair gets wet quickly in the shower and soaks up styling products efficiently.
Dries quickly: High porosity hair tends to air dry much faster than low or medium porosity hair.
Feels dry and brittle: Due to moisture loss, the hair may feel rough and brittle to the touch.
Prone to frizz and tangles: The raised cuticles can cause the hair to frizz and tangle easily.
May appear dull: The damaged cuticle layer doesn't reflect light well, making the hair look less shiny.
Susceptible to breakage: The weakened structure of high porosity hair makes it prone to breakage, especially when styling or detangling.
Characteristics of High Porosity Hair
Absorbs water and products quickly: Your hair gets wet quickly in the shower and soaks up styling products efficiently.
Dries quickly: High porosity hair tends to air dry much faster than low or medium porosity hair.
Feels dry and brittle: Due to moisture loss, the hair may feel rough and brittle to the touch.
Prone to frizz and tangles: The raised cuticles can cause the hair to frizz and tangle easily.
May appear dull: The damaged cuticle layer doesn't reflect light well, making the hair look less shiny.
Susceptible to breakage: The weakened structure of high porosity hair makes it prone to breakage, especially when styling or detangling.
Causes of High Porosity Hair
Genetics: Some people are naturally predisposed to high porosity hair.
Damage: Chemical treatments like coloring, perming, and bleaching, as well as heat styling without proper protection, can damage the cuticles and increase porosity.
Environmental factors: Sun exposure, pollution, and harsh weather conditions can also weaken the cuticle layer and increase porosity.
Genetics: Some people are naturally predisposed to high porosity hair.
Damage: Chemical treatments like coloring, perming, and bleaching, as well as heat styling without proper protection, can damage the cuticles and increase porosity.
Environmental factors: Sun exposure, pollution, and harsh weather conditions can also weaken the cuticle layer and increase porosity.
Caring for High Porosity Hair
The main goal when caring for high porosity hair is to help it retain moisture.
Deep conditioning: Regular deep conditioning treatments are crucial to replenish lost moisture and strengthen the hair.
Look for protein-rich deep conditioners to help repair the damaged cuticles.
Moisturize regularly: Use leave-in conditioners and hair oils to lock in moisture and prevent water from escaping the cuticles.
Layer products: Applying products in layers, such as using the LOC method, liquid, oil, cream, can help seal in moisture.
The main goal when caring for high porosity hair is to help it retain moisture.
Deep conditioning: Regular deep conditioning treatments are crucial to replenish lost moisture and strengthen the hair.
Look for protein-rich deep conditioners to help repair the damaged cuticles.
Moisturize regularly: Use leave-in conditioners and hair oils to lock in moisture and prevent water from escaping the cuticles.
Layer products: Applying products in layers, such as using the LOC method, liquid, oil, cream, can help seal in moisture.
Heavier sealing oils like coconut oil, castor oil, olive oil, black seed oil are recommended to help lock in hydration.
These oils create a barrier on the hair shaft, preventing moisture from escaping and reducing frizz and breakage.
While argan oil is generally considered beneficial for all hair, due to its moisturizing and protective properties, its suitability for high porosity hair may be something to think about.
High porosity hair, characterized by an open cuticle that easily loses moisture, may not benefit as much from argan oil as low or medium porosity hair.
Argan oil, being a lighter oil, might not be heavy enough to effectively seal the cuticle and prevent moisture loss in high porosity hair, potentially leading to frizz and dryness.
Minimize heat styling and chemical treatments: Reduce the use of hot styling tools and chemical treatments, as these can further damage the hair. Always use a heat protectant when heat styling.
Protect from environmental factors: Wear a hat or scarf to shield your hair from the sun and other environmental stressors.
Gentle detangling: Use a wide-tooth comb or your fingers to detangle gently, minimizing breakage.
Protective styling: Consider using protective hairstyles like braids or twists to reduce manipulation and minimize damage.
By understanding the characteristics and needs of high porosity hair, you can create a hair care routine that helps your hair stay healthy, hydrated, and beautiful.
Understanding Hair Texture
While porosity is key to how your hair absorbs and holds moisture, your hair texture also plays a role in how much oil your strands may crave.
Hair texture refers to the thickness or diameter of each strand, not the curl pattern. It’s usually categorized as:
Fine - delicate strands that can feel soft and light. A little oil goes a long way here.
Medium - the most common texture, balanced in strength and thickness. Can handle a moderate amount of oil.
Coarse - thicker strands that may feel more robust or wiry. This type often welcomes richer oils and a bit more product.
No matter your texture, trust your senses. Start small and tune in, your hair will show you what it needs.
Listening to Your Curls
In addition to porosity and texture, your curl pattern can offer helpful insight into how your hair interacts with oils.
Curl patterns generally fall into 4 categories:
While argan oil is often recommended for low and medium porosity hair due to its lightweight nature, it can still be beneficial for high porosity hair - when used in conjunction with other high porosity hair oils.
Protein treatments: Protein treatments help strengthen the hair shaft and fill in the gaps in the cuticles, improving moisture retention.
Minimize heat styling and chemical treatments: Reduce the use of hot styling tools and chemical treatments, as these can further damage the hair. Always use a heat protectant when heat styling.
Protect from environmental factors: Wear a hat or scarf to shield your hair from the sun and other environmental stressors.
Gentle detangling: Use a wide-tooth comb or your fingers to detangle gently, minimizing breakage.
Protective styling: Consider using protective hairstyles like braids or twists to reduce manipulation and minimize damage.
By understanding the characteristics and needs of high porosity hair, you can create a hair care routine that helps your hair stay healthy, hydrated, and beautiful.
Understanding Hair Texture
While porosity is key to how your hair absorbs and holds moisture, your hair texture also plays a role in how much oil your strands may crave.
Hair texture refers to the thickness or diameter of each strand, not the curl pattern. It’s usually categorized as:
Fine - delicate strands that can feel soft and light. A little oil goes a long way here.
Medium - the most common texture, balanced in strength and thickness. Can handle a moderate amount of oil.
Coarse - thicker strands that may feel more robust or wiry. This type often welcomes richer oils and a bit more product.
No matter your texture, trust your senses. Start small and tune in, your hair will show you what it needs.
Listening to Your Curls
In addition to porosity and texture, your curl pattern can offer helpful insight into how your hair interacts with oils.
Curl patterns generally fall into 4 categories:
Straight (Type 1) No natural wave or curl.
Lightweight hair oils are generally preferred as they provide hydration without making the hair feel greasy or weighed down.
Wavy (Type 2) Hair forms soft “S” shapes.
Lightweight oils work well to smooth frizz without weighing strands down.
Curly (Type 3) Spirals or ringlets that may range from loose to tight.
These curls often enjoy moderate moisture and definition from balanced, nourishing oils.
Coily/Kinky (Type 4) Tight, zigzag patterns with a delicate, springy nature.
This hair type often thrives with richer oils that deeply moisturize and protect.
Your curl pattern is beautifully unique, and no two heads of hair are the same, even within the same category.
Rather than following strict rules, consider your curl’s feel and behavior.
Do they feel dry, frizzy, heavy, or happy after oiling? Let your intuition and experience be your guide.
Take me back to the hair oil shop - HERE
Wavy (Type 2) Hair forms soft “S” shapes.
Lightweight oils work well to smooth frizz without weighing strands down.
Curly (Type 3) Spirals or ringlets that may range from loose to tight.
These curls often enjoy moderate moisture and definition from balanced, nourishing oils.
Coily/Kinky (Type 4) Tight, zigzag patterns with a delicate, springy nature.
This hair type often thrives with richer oils that deeply moisturize and protect.
Your curl pattern is beautifully unique, and no two heads of hair are the same, even within the same category.
Rather than following strict rules, consider your curl’s feel and behavior.
Do they feel dry, frizzy, heavy, or happy after oiling? Let your intuition and experience be your guide.
Take me back to the hair oil shop - HERE